Preseli Circle Walk
The walk begins at Fishguard, then heads inland to the timelessness of the Gwaun Valley. On from the Gwaun Valley, the mystery of the Preseli Hills unfolds, where the memories of ancient peoples are almost tangible and prehistoric sites abound.
The area is shrouded in mysticism, with strong links to King Arthur and the Mabinogion. The Bluestone quarry is awe inspiring, provoking thoughts and questions about man's very existence. The trail then follows the redundant Cardi Bach railway tracks to Cilgerran along the Teifi Gorge, with its coracle fishing, and on to the estuary at Cardigan.
The Pembrokeshire Coast Path marks the return trek westwards with the spectacular cliffs of Cemaes Head and on to the cosy refreshment hives of Newport. The final stretch from Dinas Island to Fishguard completes a journey truly worth making.
* Copies of Ordnance Survey Explorer OL35, 185 and 198 maps are recommended.
* All times and distances are approximate.
Wildlife
Springtime flora of snowdrops, primroses, dog violets and purple orchids blossom, followed in late summer by red campion and sea campion on the cliffs.
Woodland plants include wood sorrel, wood anemone, wild garlic and bluebell, upland plants include fir club moss, liverwort, sundews and orchids with a late summer carpet of heather and gorse.
Gwaun Valley
Goodwick to Tregynon (10.5 miles / 17km, 5 hrs)
During the ice age melting ice water carved out the steep sided Gwaun valley which has helped to preserve its distinctive communities. The Julian calendar remained after the Gregorian calendar was introduced and local people still celebrate New Year 'Hen Galan' on 13th January. The medieval ball game cnapan described in George Owen's book 'Description of Pembrokeshire' 1603, was played in this part of North Pembrokeshire.
- Distance is 10.50miles/16.90km
- Height is Ascents 230m, descents 45m
- 18 stiles, 6 gates, 1 footbridge
- Refreshments
- Accommodation
- Car parking
- Bus
- Preseli Green Dragon
Points of interest
Carn Ingli
(Mount of Angels), visited by the 6th century St Brynach, is the site of an Iron Age Fort with stone embankments and hut circle remains.
Llanychaer
An Iron Age defensive enclosure is situated behind the village pub.
Pontfaen
St Brynach's churchyard has a Latin cross-incised pillar stone and a Celtic cross-incised pillar stone dated to 7th - 9th century.
Tregynon
A probable Iron Age enclosure, with a semi-circular earth bank and ditch.
Gellifawr
Gellifawr sits between the two Preseli Hills of Carn Ingli and Foel Eryr.
Marine Walk
A number of WW2 searchlight batteries were located along the coast here.Fishguard Town
Behind the town's primary school and Catholic school can be seen four examples of WW2 fifty-person air-raid shelters.Maesgwynne Farm
This farm on the outskirts of Fishguard was the site of a large Royal Marines camp during WW2.Royal Oak, Fishguard Square
A room at this inn was used as the headquarters of the defence force rapidly put together to meet the threat of the French Invasion of 1797.Fishguard Fort
Fishguard Fort occupies a natural defensive site on a promontory overlooking Lower Town Harbour. It was built in about 1780 in response to the threat posed by privateer raiders and in particular the activities of Paul Jones and Stephen Manhant.Carn Enoch ring barrow
This possible Bronze Age ring barrow is located on the western slopes of Carn Enoch.Mynydd Melyn hut
The remains of what was once an extensive system of huts and enclosures.The Preseli Hills
Preseli Hills
On a clear day, the Preseli views stretch to the Black Mountains, Snowdonia and the Wicklow Hills of Ireland. 'Everywhere you feel the presence of the magalithic tomb-builders, of the Iron Age warriors who piled the stones of the great hill forts and of kindly and absentminded old Celtic Saints' - wrote Wynford Vaughan Thomas.
- Distance is 11.00miles/17.70km
- Height is Ascents 455m, descents 410m
- 9 stiles, 7 gates, 2footbridges
Points of interest
Foel Eryr
(Eagle's Hill) 1535ft / 468m. A Bronze Age burial cairn on the summit. The river Gwaun has its source on Foel Eryr's slopes.
Bwlch Gwynt
1325ft / 405m. A drover's route from Fishguard towards Crymych.
Foel Cwmcerwyn
1760ft / 563m. The highest point in the Preselis. The Mabinogion story of Culhwch and Olwen tells of the wild Irish boar Twrch Trwyth. Culhwch's cousin King Arthur helped him on his quest to Ireland which ended in the killing of one of Twrch Trwyth's young boars. Trwch Trwyth crossed from Ireland to Foel Cwmcerwyn to gain revenge. He battled with King Arthur and many of Arthur's knights were slain, their bodies turning instantly to stone at the site known as 'Cerrig Marchogion' (the Knight's Stones). Bedd Arthur is a stone circle claimed to be King Arthur's grave.
Another Mabinogion tale tells of Pwyll, Prince of Dyfed, meeting his nobles at Preseli.
The Golden Road
This was an ancient trading route along the Preseli ridge to Whitesands Bay and Ireland.
Carn Meini
This is thought by some to be the source of the Bluestone used to construct the inner circle of Stonehenge.
Foel Drygarn
At 1200ft / 363m, Foel Drygarn is a formidable Iron Age fortress with double ramparts and ditches built around 350 BC, on the site of three Bronze Age Burial cairns.
Bwrdd y Brenin
A large flat stone on the summit of Foel Drygarn, fabled to hide a pot of gold.
The Preseli Hills were used for training purposes during the two World Wars and Rosebush hosted a World War II American military camp.
Rosebush
S, R, A, Bus PGD
The railway was extended to Rosebush in 1876 to export the local slate and there were ambitions to develop Rosebush as a mountain spa and holiday resort. A row of quarrymen's cottages and a corrugated zinc hotel were built. In 1943 Barnes Wallis used the area for his 'dam buster bouncing bomb' experiments.
Maenclochog
S, R, A, T, CP, SP, Bus PGD
St Mary's Church stands in a raised churchyard and contains the inscribed stones to the sons of Cavetus. Monthly fairs were held on the village green which, unusually, surrounds the church. Maenclochog means 'the ringing stones'.
Mynachlog Ddu
A, SP, Bus PDG
Mynachlog Ddu refers to the black-habited monks of St Dogmaels Abbey who used the land for sheep grazing. Gors Fawr is the only Preseli free standing stone circle.
Waldo's Stone
This stone commemorates the famous Welsh poet Waldo Williams 1904 - 1971. His poem 'Preseli' is a personal testament to the hills.
Twm Carnabwth
Thomas Rees known as Twm Carnabwth, was believed to be 'Rebecca' the leader of the first Rebecca Riots and is buried at Bethel Chapel.
Cerrig Lladron standing stone pair
This pairing of stones, one large the other considerably smaller, was located 230 metres north of the summit of Foel Eryr during the Bronze Age and is a Scheduled Ancient Monument.Tafarn-y-bwlch standing stone
This stone, over 1.5 metres high, stands at the edge of the main road crossing the Preselis, just south-west of Tafarn-y-bwlch.Tafarn-y-bwlch standing stone pair
A Scheduled Ancient Monument comprising pair of large Bronze Age standing stones both over a metre tall.Waun Mawn standing stone
A fine Bronze Age standing stone some 2 metres high and tapering to a rough point at the top.Abandoned farm
Tafarn-y-Bwlch in the Preseli HillsCarn Goedog standing stone
This is a small standing stone on the lower slopes of Carn Goedog that was probably placed here during the Bronze Age.Carn Arthur
Standing stones at Carn Arthur in the Preseli HillsCarnalw defended enclosure
The rocky outcrop of Carnalw forms the eastern side of the defence and overlooks the interior of this Iron Age enclosure on the northern slopes of the Preselis.Carn Menyn
Carn Menyn, Preseli HillsRiver of stones
at Carn MenynCrug-yr-Hwch
This area was extensively used as a tank range during World War Two.The Cardi Bach
The Cardi Bach Railway
Originally built from Whitland in 1870 for Glogue slate quarries and Llanfyrnach silver lead mines, the Cardi Bach Railway reached Crymych in 1874, and extended to Cardigan in 1886.
During the World Wars, military trains carried troops to Crymych railway station for the Preseli Training Camps. The line closed in 1963 and was completely dismantled, though the route is still visible in many places.
- Height is Ascents 230m, descents 440m
- 36 stiles, 35 gates, 3 footbridges
Points of interest
The Cardi Bach Railway
Originally built from Whitland in 1870 for Glogue slate quarries and Llanfyrnach silver lead mines, the Cardi Bach Railway reached Crymych in 1874, and extended to Cardigan in 1886.
During the World Wars, military trains carried troops to Crymych railway station for the Preseli Training Camps. The line closed in 1963 and was completely dismantled, though the route is still visible in many places.
Crymych
S, R, B, A, I, T, CP, SP Buses PGD, 390, 430
In the early 1800's Crymych was only a handful of houses and farms and the Crymych Arms. The village was orignially a collection site for cattle herded along the drover's routes. it was also a coaching stop between Haverfordwest and Cardigan.
The railway soon transformed Crymych into a busy commercial centre with a monthly market and twon annual fairs.
Frenni Fawr
1297ft / 395m
Frenni Fawr folklore tells of an encounter of a shepherd with the Tylwyth Teg (the fairies) near the Bronze Age burial cairns on the summit, while legend tells of a chest filled with gold. One of the Mabinogi Tales tells the dream of Macsen Wledig, or Magnus Maximus, who proclaimed himself Roman Emperor of the West. When hunting on Frenni fawr, he camped at a site that is to this day called Cadair Facsen (Macsen's Chair).
Blaenffos
S, R, A Buses 390, 430
The Cardi Bach line was extended from Crymych into Blaenffos en route to Cardigan.
Boncath
S, R, A, CP, SP Bus 430
Boncath is Welsh for Buzzard. the village grew with the extension of the railway from Crymych.
The Teifi Estuary
Cilgerran Castle, high above the Teifi Gorge was rebuilt after a troubled period of capture and recapture from Welsh hands. St Llawddog churchyard has a 6th century stone with Latin and Ogham inscriptions. Cilgerran was an important wool centre and exporter of Teifi slate and coracles were used here for salmon fishing.
The Wildlife Centre near Cilgerran is a popular nature reserve and and study centre owned by the Wildlife Trust of South and West Wales.
- Distance is 6.00miles/9.66km
- Height is Ascents 145m, descents 145m
- 4 stiles, 2 gates, 5 footbridges
- Shop
- Refreshments
- Accommodation
- Car parking
- Street parking
- Bus 430
Points of interest
Cilgerran
S, R, A, T, CP, SP, Bus 430
Cilgerran Castle, high above the Teifi Gorge was rebuilt after a troubled period of capture and recapture from Welsh hands. St Llawddog churchyard has a 6th century stone with Latin and Ogham inscriptions. Cilgerran was an important wool centre and exporter of Teifi slate and coracles were used here for salmon fishing.
The Wildlfe Centre near Cilgerran is a popular nature reserve and and study centre owned by the Wildlife Trust of South and West Wales.
Cardigan (Aberteifi)
S, R, B, A, I, T, CP, SP, Buses - 405, 390, 412, 430
The strategically important Cardigan Castle was built late 11th Century when the Norman, Robert Montgomery, established a stronghold against the native Welsh. The first recorded Eisteddfod was held at Aberteifi Castle in 1176, with competitors from other Celtic countries. Cardigan was an important seaport until the early 19th century with busy shipbuilding and herring fishing industries. It also developed as a market town.
St Dogmaels
S, R, A, I, CP, SP, Bus - 405
The Ogham Stones indicate a 5th or 6th century Christian presence and the Sagranus stone was important for deciphering the ancient Ogham script. Following the Norman invasion, Benedictine monks built an abbey in 1120, replacing the earlier Celtic Monastery. In the 18th and 19th centuries, salted herrings were being exported to Ireland and Spain. The monks introduced seine net fishing for salmon.
Mills
In 1537 there were two unoccupied mills which had belonged to the Abbey. One was re-built and was referred to as a 'new water corn grist mill' in 1619. It is believed that part of this is incorporated in today's mill, Y Felin.Melinau
Ym 1537 yr oedd dwy felin wag a oedd yn eiddo i'r Abaty. Ailadeiladwyd un, a gwelir cyfeirio at 'felin ddŵr ŷd mâl' newydd ym 1619. Credir fod rhan ohoni yn y felin bresennol yn Llandudoch.Yr Abaty
Yr oedd gan yr eglwys gyn-Normanaidd statws 'clas' - roedd yn sefydliad mynachaidd ac yn fam eglwys. Yr oedd ganddi hawliau noddfa. Efallai fod y ddwy groes o Bryngwyn, sy'n cael eu harddangos bellach yng Nghaerdydd, yn nodi ffiniau'r noddfa.The Abbey
The pre-Norman church was a “clas” - a monastic establishment and a mother church. It had rights of sanctuary (noddfa). Possibly the two crosses from Bryngwyn, which are now on display in Cardiff, marked the boundary of the sanctuary.The Pembrokeshire Coast Path
Poppit Sands to Newport
Poppit Sands is located at the mouth of the River Teifi and the dunes provide an important wildlife habitat, especialy for the bee-orchid.
Cemaes Head
(no refreshment stops until reaching Newport)
The spectacular cliffs rise 175m. Thin layers of sandstone and shale alternate with mudstone, later compressed to form the visible folds in the cliffs between Cemaes Head and Ceibwr Bay.
Witches Cauldron is a blowhole, a collapsed cave roof with a narrow passage connecting it to the sea. Bottle-nosed dolphins and porpoise may be seen offshore.
Moylgrove (Trewyddel)
The settlement was originally names 'Grava Matildas' - Matilda's Grave. Matilda was the wife of Robert Fitzmartin, the Norman invader of Cemaes.
Nevern
Nevern Castle was built by Norman conqueror Robert Fitzmartin, but was seized by Prince Rhys ap Gruffydd in 1191. Inside St Brynach's Church are the Latin Vitalianus and Ogham Maglocunus inscribed stones. Nevern Cross, 10th century or early 11th century, is almost 14ft high and of local dolerite stone. The famo
Coast Path Safety Code
Take care on the Coast Path - it runs through rugged, natural terrain. Please follow the Coast Path Safety Code:
* Keep to the path, away from cliff edges and overhangs.
* Always supervise children, especially near cliff edges.
* Walking surfaces can vary considerably with the weather. Always wear strong footwear with a good grip.
* Wear or carry warm and waterproof clothing.
* Clifftop walking can be dangerous in high winds.
* Beware of taking shortcuts across beaches - you may be cut off by the tide. Swimming can also be dangerous.
* Do not sit under cliffs or climb them.
* Keep dogs under close control.
Remember - the Coast Path is for walkers. Most of its length is not suitable for cycling or horse riding.
Poppit Sands
- Distance is 14.00miles/22.53km
- Height is Ascents 415m, descents 415m.
- 17stiles, 13 gates, 408 steps
Points of interest
Poppit Sands
S, R, A, T, CP, Bus 405
Poppit Sands is located at the mouth of the River Teifi and the dunes provide an important wildlife habitat, especialy for the bee-orchid.
Cemaes Head
(no refreshment stops until reaching Newport)
The spectacular cliffs rise 175m. Thin layers of sandstone and shale alternate with mudstone, later compressed to form the visible folds in the cliffs between Cemaes Head and Ceibwr Bay.
Witches Cauldron is a blowhole, a collapsed cave roof with a narrow passage connecting it to the sea. Bottle-nosed dolphins and porpoise may be seen offshore.
Moylgrove (Trewyddel)
S, R, A Bus 405
The settlement was originally names 'Grava Matildas' - Matilda's Grave. Matilda was the wife of Robert Fitzmartin, the Norman invader of Cemaes.
Nevern
R, A, T, Bus PGD
Nevern Castle was built by Norman conqueror Robert Fitzmartin, but was seized by Prince Rhys ap Gruffydd in 1191. Inside St Brynach's Church are the Latin Vitalianus and Ogham Maglocunus inscribed stones. Nevern Cross, 10th century or early 11th century, is almost 14ft high and of local dolerite stone. The famous 'Bleeding Yew' tree is known for its blood-like seeping red sap.
Ceibwr Bay
Cliffs at Ceibwr Bay, MoylegroveThe Pembrokeshire Coast Path
Newport to Pwllgwaelod/Dinas (8.5m/13.5km, 4hours) Ascents 100m, descents 100m. 6 stiles, 11 gates, 138 steps.
Coast Path Safety Code
Take care on the Coast Path - it runs through rugged, natural terrain. Please follow the Coast Path Safety Code:
* Keep to the path, away from cliff edges and overhangs.
* Always supervise children, especially near cliff edges.
* Walking surfaces can vary considerably with the weather. Always wear strong footwear with a good grip.
* Wear or carry warm and waterproof clothing.
* Clifftop walking can be dangerous in high winds.
* Beware of taking shortcuts across beaches - you may be cut off by the tide. Swimming can also be dangerous.
* Do not sit under cliffs or climb them.
* Keep dogs under close control.
Remember - the Coast Path is for walkers. Most of its length is not suitable for cycling or horse riding.
- Distance is 8.50miles/13.68km
- Height is Ascents 100m, descents 100m.
- 6 stiles, 11 gates, 138 steps
Points of interest
Newport
S, R, B, A, I, T, CP, SP. Buses PGD, 405, 412
Newport Castle was founded around 1200 by the Norman Lord Willam Fitzmartin after he was driven out of Nevern. The site changed hands several times between the fighting Normans and Welsh. From 16th century onwards Newport was an important trading and shipbuilding centre, exporting wool and herrings and importing bricks, limestone, tiles and coal.
Carreg Coetan Arthur is a Neolithic burial chamber. Parrog had several warehouses, one of which is now the Newport Boat Club.
Dinas Island
S, R, A, CP, SP, Bus 405, 412 (Dinas)
Dinas Island is almost separated from the mainland by a deep valley. The 12th century church of St Brynach at Cwm-yr-Eglwys was destroyed by the great storm of 1859 and only the belfry and west wall remain.
Pwllgwaelod was once busy with little ships, an inn and a limekiln.
Y Bont Haearn
Codwyd pont gerrig gyda chwe bwa yn y drydedd ganrif ar ddeg.Iron Bridge
A stone bridge with 6 arches was constructed here in the 13th century.Cwm-yr-Eglwys
Clifftop at Cwm-yr-EglwysThe Pembrokeshire Coast Path
Coast Path Safety Code
Take care on the Coast Path - it runs through rugged, natural terrain. Please follow the Coast Path Safety Code:
* Keep to the path, away from cliff edges and overhangs.
* Always supervise children, especially near cliff edges.
* Walking surfaces can vary considerably with the weather. Always wear strong footwear with a good grip.
* Wear or carry warm and waterproof clothing.
* Clifftop walking can be dangerous in high winds.
* Beware of taking shortcuts across beaches - you may be cut off by the tide. Swimming can also be dangerous.
* Do not sit under cliffs or climb them.
* Keep dogs under close control.
Remember - the Coast Path is for walkers. Most of its length is not suitable for cycling or horse riding.
Fishguard
- Distance is 7.00miles/11.27km
- Height is Ascents 200m, descents 200m
- 16 stiles, 8 gates, 295 steps
- Shop
- Refreshments
- Bank
- Accommodation
- Information
- Toilet
- Car parking
- Street parking
- Train
- Buses 405, 404, 411, 412, 410
Points of interest
Fishguard
(or Abergwaun - meaning mouth of the river Gwaun)
S, R, B, A, I, T, CP, SP, Train, Buses 405, 405, 404, 411, 412, 410
Lower Town was the original Abergwaun. Two centuries ago it was an important trading centre with more than 50 ships exporting corn, butter, fish and slate and it remained and it remained busy until the railway came. Lower Town was the setting for the film of Dylan Thomas' 'Under Milk Wood'. Glyn y Mel mansion was the home of Richard Fenton, author of 'A Historical Tour Through Pembrokeshire'. A new harbour and rail terminal were built at Goodwick.
Strumble Head lighthouse was built in 1908 and is famous spot for watching seabirds and migrant birds.
Fishguard Fort was built between 1779 and 1781 and on 22 February 1797 its guns were fired to warn of approaching French ships. Four Napoleonic French vessels anchored off Carreg Wastad and the American commander William Tate and 1400 soldiers landed. They looted farms, got drunk and eventually surrendered on Goodwick Sands. The Royal Oak Inn displays the table on which the surrender was signed. it is said that Jemima Nicholas single-handedly rounded up some of the invaders. A memorial stone to jemima can be found in St Mary's Church.
