Heritage of South Pembrokeshire

One of the best ways to discover the hidden heritage of rural South Pembrokeshire is on foot - a task made easy by the great number of footpaths, bridleways and waymarked trails which criss-cross the landscape. There are also the long-distance paths, such as The Landsker Borderlands Trail and The South of the Landsker Trail, parts of which cover the areas described in this guide. In addition, leaflets are freely available for walks in the Hidden Heritage series, which currently include The Miners Walk, The Ritec Walk and All Saints Walks. For further details about walking in South Pembrokeshire, please contact local tourist information centres or tourist information points.

Pointers of Discovery

Everywhere there are pointers to our hidden heritage. Features in the landscape and local names recall the earliest inhabitants. 'Beaconing Lane' in East Williamston may lead to a Bronze Age burial barrow re-used for the calling of people together in time of danger, while 'Castle Hill' in Loveston refers to an Iron Age fortification (not a medieval castle).

Bishops Palace, Lamphey

Church dedications like St. Tyfai at Lamphey and St. Elidyr at East Williamston are a reminder of the early Christian missionaries, Celtic and Welsh. The Normans brought new estate owners and people, new names and re-dedications. But heritage is complex, the occasional Welsh farm and field name surviving to the present day.

The Palace at Lamphey, one of the residences of the Bishops of St. David's in the Middle Ages, links with the power of the mediaeval Church. While the wayside chapels are a reminder of the place of Dissent in the local ethos. And still to be seen are parts of the old network of communication which pre-dated the great 19th century Turnpike Road and the modern A477(T).

People At Work

One of the big surprises of this agricultural area is to come upon names like 'Miners Cottage', 'Blackway', 'Coalpit Lane' and 'Miners Arms', a walk which follows the route of a tramroad, sites of coal workings and spoil heaps (as in Jeffreyston), and most unexpected of all, the ruins of the Kilgetty Ironworks at Stepaside.

It was only in the first decades of the 20th century that coal and iron ceased to be important in the local economy. Although these industries were never large, and always contained within an agricultural setting, coal-getting was part of the local scene from the 14th century, in these parishes which over-lie the Saundersfoot - St. Brides Bay band of carboniferous coal measures, the anthracite being of very high quality.

'Bulldog' engine carrying miners on the Saundersfoot to Thomas Chapel line

In the early centuries, coal not sold at the pits was marketed via Cresswell Quay or Wiseman's Bridge, but facilities were greatly improved with the building of a tramroad from Thomas Chapel to Saundersfoot (with its new harbour) in 1834. However, progress in coal extraction was always hampered by technical difficulties.

Kilgetty, which came into existence following the building of the railway station, retained many of the features of an industrial community into the 20th century. The last coal to be marketed was in 1990 from the site of the new school at Kilgetty. Limestone was quarried in Crunwear for example and rural occupations found in most parishes included corn milling, spinning and weaving and crafts linked with farming.

Wildlife

Come spring, a bouquet of wild flowers transforms the hedgerows and roadsides of inland South Pembrokeshire into a riot of colour. Early species such as lesser celandine are quickly followed by snowdrops, bluebells, foxgloves, primroses and early purple orchids.
Later in the summer, dog rose, honey-suckle, yellow toadflax and purple betony are common in the hedgerows and even in the winter many species such as herb robert continue to flower in the mild climate.

Near Jeffreyston, the tidal mudflats of the Cresswell River provide rich winter feeding grounds for redshank, dunlin and curlew and several species of duck, while over the rolling farmland buzzards and kestrels may be seen hunting for food. There are also many areas of woodland, supporting both conifers and broadleaved trees, which provide ideal habitats for badgers, foxes and squirrels as well as birds such as nuthatch and greater spotted woodpecker.

Inland Communities of South Pembrokeshire

Lamphey

Now a ruin, the magnificent Bishop's Palace boasted many fine architectural features.
These included the great hall, built by Bishop Henry de Gower in the 14th century, and the 16th century chapel.

Stepaside

This was initially the name of a farm. Its first use has been attributed to Oliver Cromwell but without evidence. The growth of the village can be linked with the coming of the turnpike road and industrial development particularly the establishment of Kilgetty Ironworks, which was located in Pleasant Valley.

Broadmoor

Broadmoor evolved as a mining village, coal being worked from the 17th century at least, to the 20th century. When work was insufficient, miners walked to Bonvilles Court colliery, Saundersfoot. The village increased in size and importance with the building of
the Turnpike Road (completed 1839). This crossed the long existing road from Jeffreyston at the point where later, Cross Inn was to be established.

Llanteg

Llanteg lies at the eastern end of the county in the parish of Crunwear. The church is dedicated to St. Elidyr. Trenewydd, nearby, is a former gentry house.

Yerbeston

Is now off the beaten track and its church of St. Lawrence no longer in use. There is mention of the New Inn in the 17th century and it still functioned as a hostelry in 1891.

St. Florence Village

St. Florence

Award-winning St. Florence is noted for its 'Flemish chimneys'. Nearby are medieval vaulted yeoman houses of a type peculiar to South Pembrokeshire. Until 1820 small ships sailed up the Ritec to the village. In 1963 the tower of the 12th century church was restored and the number of bells increased to six.

Jeffreyston

A rectangular slab in the church porch bearing an incised ring cross, together with the traces of a radial layout which may be noticed in the surrounding village, suggest that this is an ancient settlement dating back to pre-Norman times. Mining has been important in the parish. The workings at Underhill have recently been designated an ancient monument by Cadw.

Loveston to Jeffreyston

Cresselly

The name is possibly derived from 'Croes' or 'Cross' followed by a personal name 'Eli' or 'Heli', but there is no cross there today. The village is closely linked with the Cresselly Estate.

Redberth

A Norman lord gave Redberth to the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, but in 1540 it passed to the Crown, following the dissolution of religious houses. The parish had no pits, and until 1926 a major employer was the Royal Naval Dockyard in Pembroke Dock. St. Mary's church was rebuilt in 1840-41.

East Williamston

The Church is dedicated to a Welsh Saint, St. Elidyr, an indication of some antiquity. The field shapes and names around the village recall the time when arable land was organised in strips contained in big, open fields. Until 1839, the main traffic to Pembroke travelled via Cold Inn and East Williamston. The origin of the name 'Cold Inn' is a local puzzle: like so many inexplicables, it is attributed to Cromwell without any evidence! Coal mining used to be an important local occupation.

Impression of medieval strip farming in East Williamston

Loveston

19th century development was along the Haverfordwest road (B4586) but the old parish centre was the church slightly to the east. The church has a mediaeval tower and Tudor window. In the Middle Ages, Great Loveston was a monastic grange with corn and fulling mills. In 1936 there was a disastrous in-rush of water from old workings at Loveston colliery and 7 men were drowned.

Begelly

The name is thought to be derived from 'bugail', Welsh for 'shepherd'. The story of the settlement extends from prehistoric times. In the Middle Ages it was a knight's fee and there was a motte and bailey castle near the imposing hillside parish church of St. Mary. There was also a place of prayer called 'St. Thomas Chapel'. Thomas Chapel was, in later times, one of the important collieries of the parish.

St Mary's Parish Church, Begelly

Kilgetty

Is named after a former mansion of the Canon and Philipps of Picton families, centre of the Kilgetty Estate. The modern village grew up around Kilgetty railway station. It had a dual nature: with its fortnightly mart and large Co-operative it was a centre for farming business; it also was the focal point of the local industrial community with its two Friendly Societies and a Miners Welfare Committee which helped to introduce amenities. Nearby is Kingsmoor Common, an area rich in wildlife, the scene in the past of large religious, disputive and athletic assemblies and traditionally the home of gypsies.

Hundleton

Just off the square is an interesting road sign. The old route from Castlemartin Peninsula to Pennar used to pass through the square to Bentlas and the ferry. Maiden Wells, location of historic springs, is also part of the community of Hundleton. Nearby is Orielton Field Centre.

Kingsmoor Common & Begelly Village

Summerhill

The name Summerhill possibly arose from seasonal use of the land in earlier times. It is possible to walk from Summerhill to The Cwms and on to Colby Gardens (both National Trust properties), Near The Cwms, the path passes a derelict sawpit.