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PEMBROKESHIRE'S
SECRET WATERWAY
The Milford Haven Waterway has been described as
one of the finest natural harbours in the World.
It is a classic example of a Ria, a drowned valley.
Millions of years ago, a river valley was formed
along a fault line in the rock. At the end of
the Ice Age, melting ice sheets released immense
amounts of water to deepen the valley. As the
sea level rose, the valley flooded. This broad
sweep of water has played a vital role in the
history and fortunes of its people. The waterway
also features landscapes of remarkable contrast.
To the east run the tranquil waters of the Daugleddau
(two Cleddau’s), here the eastern and western
branches of the river meet. To the west, as it
approaches the sea, the waterway widens. Here
are busy townships, modern industries and historic
fortifications. No wonder then, that for most
of its length the waterway lies within the Pembrokeshire
Coast National Park.
Dale
In 1609 the pirate Thomas Salkeld raided the
village, looting and burning houses. Smugglers
operated out
of Dale a century later. Dale Fort and West Blockhouse
were built in the 1850’s to protect the
harbour. Henry VII landed at Mill Bay to begin
his march to
Bosworth Field and the crown.
St Ishmael’s
The remains of a Norman motte, St Ishmael’s
Tump, stands on the outskirts of the village. A church
lies near the sea, where an early monastery once
stood. During the dark ages, this was one of the
seven Bishop Houses of Dyfed. In its churchyard are
C10th carved gravestones.
Herbranston
Local legend states that in 1101, Flemish settles
first landed in Pembrokeshire at the nearby tidal
inlet of Sandy Haven. South Hook Fort stands sentinel
on the cliffs as does the fort Stack Rocks. The forts
were built along the Waterway to protect the Royal
Dockyard at Pembroke Dock.
Milford Haven
and Hakin
In 1790 Sir William Hamilton was granted an Act of
Parliament to build a town upon his land. A group
of Quaker whalers from Nantucket was persuaded to
settle here; whaling ships sailed from the port for
more than two decades. The Observatory at Hakin is
all that remains of the “College of King George
the Third”. Intended to teach mathematics,
engineering and nautical skills, it was never completed.
The docks were completed in 1888. Milford soon became
one of the largest fishing ports in Britain employing
over 4,000 people. There was a steady decline. The
docks now contain a marina, shops, flats, restaurants,
galleries and a museum.
Llanstadwell
The C15th tower of St Tudwal’s church was a
landmark for mariners. In 1934, Richard II was entertained
here for 40 shillings by the vicar of Llanstadwell
before crossing to Ireland. During the C19th and
early C20th, people made their livelihoods from boat-building,
fishing or in the Royal Dockyard at Pembroke Dock.
Neyland
Until the 1850’s, Neyland was a fishing village.
In the C18th the shipyard built warships and smaller
vessels. In 1852 Brunel chose the site for the rail
terminus at Westfield Pill. By 1856, there were regular
sailings to Ireland to link with the train services.
From 1908 catches were auctioned at the first market
sent by train across Britain.
Burton
Several small shipyards operated here in the C18th
and C19th. The large timber jetty was built in
the Victorian period. When the foundations for
the Cleddau Bridge were dug in 1969, the skeletons
of several sailors were discovered wrapped in their
hammocks. They may have died of plague.
Llangwm
Thought to have been a Flemish settlement in the
middle ages, its inhabitants made their living
from fishing and harvesting shellfish. In the C16th,
oysters were exported from Llangwm. In Victorian
times women travelled on foot to Haverfordwest
and Tenby to sell fish or oysters, carried in large
panniers on their backs.
Freystrop
and Hook
Anthracite coal was mined from the C14th and exported
as far as Spain. Legend raltes that the Spanish
sailors bartered daffodil bulbs for coal. By the
C19th, deep
mines had opened and a tramway was built to carry
coal to Hook Quay for shipment. By 1931, 35,000
tons of coal was exported.
Boulston
The Modern Parish of Boulston consists of scattered
farmsteads and tiny hamlets. The ancient manor
of Boulston, now an overgrown ruin on the banks
of the Western Cleddau was once the home of the
Wogan family. The nearby C13th church was abandoned
over a century ago.
The Rhos
The Rhos developed as an estate village connected
to nearby Picton Castle, which still remains the
village’s focal point. Picton Ferry stands
directly opposite Landshipping Ferry offering superb
views of the estuary and a perfect spor for bird
watching.
Landshipping
The isolated village of Landshipping is a haven of
tranquillity, belying the village’s busy
industrial heritage. The coalmines have long since
closed and the quays lie quiet offering the ideal
spot for bird watching and other quiet pastimes.
Martletwy
A short walk inland from the estuary at Landshipping
is the small village of Martletwy. Its parish church,
intriguingly named St Marcellus is well worth a
visit as is the vineyard where you can sample the
fruits of the local vines.
Lawrenny
Much of the working life of the Daugleddau centred
around Lawrenny Quay. Today Lawrenny village, with
its well-restored cottages and church still has
many of its medieval features. A National Park
picnic site, which stands on the former site of
Lawrenny Castle, offers superb views over the Carew
and Creswell rivers.
Cresswell Quay
At Cresswell Quay you can enjoy some of the many
waterbird species which feed in full view. A quiet
contrast with the activity of the past when anthracite
coal was exploited from here. The ruins of Cresswell
Castle lie across the river hinting at this quiet
community’s history.
West Williamston
Limestone quarrying was for centuries the backbone
of this small community and today its riverbanks
are designated a nature reserve. The village has
its own oiled bird centre and further along the
river Carew Oysters are harvested.
Carew
One of the most spectacular spots along the secret
waterway is Carew Castle. However, Carew is worth
exploring a little further to uncover hidden delights
such as, an ancient Flemish chimney, the French
Mill and a magnificent parish church at Carew Cheriton.
Milton
Milton stands astride a busy main road, but if
you get off the beaten track and explore
a little further
then you will discover tranquil riverside views
and a perfect spot to shop a while at Milton
Brewery.
Cosheston
Cosheston was once a centre for shipbuilding, today
you can visit historic buildings such as Cosheston
church, built on medieval foundations, and Upton
Castle gardens and chapel, which are open to the
public.
Pembroke Dock
Pembroke Dock was built in 1814 when the Royal Navy
dockyard transferred from Milford Haven. By the C19th
it had become one of the principal shipbuilding yards
in Britain. Changes in terminology and the development
of the dreadnought battleship meant that the dockyard
became inadequate. It closed in 1926. During WWII,
the town was a base for all three military services.
Today, Pembroke Dock is the terminus for the Irish
Ferry.
Pembroke
The historic walled town of Pembroke is perhaps most
famous for its magnificent castle, birthplace of
Henry VII. Main Street is the ideal place to potter
amongst craft and antique shops, cafes, restaurants
and pubs.
Hundleton
The name Hundleton may come from ‘Hounds Farm’.
This old village on the edge of Pembroke town, is
close to Orielton House, a Georgian mansion now used
as a field study centre.
Angle
Angle has several notable military defence features
such as Thorn Island and Chapel Bay Forts. Other
interesting features include the new lifeboat station,
a medieval fortified residence known as the Tower
House, a dovecote, C15th Angle Hall and rare examples
of the Norman strip system of farming.
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Also in this
section:
-
Hidden Treasures -
Areas to Discover
- In and Around the
Preseli Hills
- Narberth and the Landsker Borderlands
- St David's Peninsula
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